Former prisons that are now luxury hotels, Ottoman-era shopping districts that're buzzing with rare finds and unexpected restaurants that rival the best in the world, this Istanbul city guide promises an adventure you will never forget.
Once home to three historic empires, Istanbul is packed full of dynamic architecture, art and design; visitors can spend days traversing through ancient churches turned mosques, contemporary art galleries, and historic bathhouses reimagined as art destinations. The sheer size of the city, which quite literally is a bridge between two continents, can often be a little overwhelming to navigate, however. But fret not, AD's city guide to Istanbul is all you need.
Where to Stay in Istanbul
Located in the centre of the upmarket Nisantsi district, The Stay perfectly encapsulates the chic atmosphere of the neighbourhood; spacious state-of-the-art rooms are decorated with beige panelled walls and sleek wooden furnishings. Quirky design details are featured throughout, including an array of contemporary artwork from local creatives Doğan Demir and Nur Büker. thestay.com.tr
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Occupying an Italian monastery turned French Catholic school, the Ecole St Pierre Hotel incorporates an array of design features from its diverse history. Petite courtyards, arched casement windows and Genoese walls dating back to the thirteenth century form the basis of the building. Minimalist rooms can be found inside, with eggshell linens and exposed brick walls featured throughout. estphotel.com
Once an Ottoman-era prison home to hundreds of anti-establishment artists and writers, the Four Seasons Sultanahmet was recently reconverted into a luxury hotel. Design details from the Neoclassic period have been retained, including lofty ceilings and expansive French windows. Modern touches have also been added, with the suites now lined with shimmering hardwood furnishings and local contemporary artwork. Owing to its central location in the historic Fatih district, the hotel’s rooftop bar also overlooks the nearby Hagia Sophia mosque. fourseasons.com
What to see in Istanbul
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The historic hammam ritual was once a focal point of the Ottoman society; visitors would flock to the bathhouses to socialise, conduct business, and partake in the ancient cleansing practice. Now, several of these ancient hammams have been restored and offer the traditional wellbeing treatment. The newly renovated Zeyrek Cinili Hamam, which features expansive marble interiors, dome ceilings, and star-shared openings, is the perfect option for design-orientated visitors. It only helps that it is also a booming destination for contemporary art exhibitions.
A fixture on every Istanbul city guide, the historic Sultanahmet District is a must-see. Compared to the more bohemian neighbourhoods of Nisantsi and Karakoy, Sultanahmet is full of old-school charm; cobbled streets, verdant trees and quaint green spaces fill the district. The area is also home to many of Istanbul’s quintessential attractions, such as the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and the Basilica Cistern.
Where to Shop in Istanbul
The antique district of Cukurcuma is packed with quaint shops targeted towards the treasure hunters among us. A La Turca, a gallery housed in a four-storied nineteenth-century house, is by far one of the best spots for retail therapy. Offerings include richly patterned rugs, traditional Ottoman rose water glasses and Anatolian vintage jars. @alaturcahouse
Crammed full of bold accessories, vintage knick-knacks and delicate homeware pieces, House of Junk is the place for design-orientated shoppers. Located in Asli Tamer’s family villa in the sleepy Zekeriyaköy suburb, this is where you will find elaborate light fixtures, eccentric neon signs and velvet furnishings. @house_of_junk
Where to Eat in Istanbul
Situated inside a 1960s villa in the Etiler district, Arkesta is a Michelin-starred restaurant opened by husband-wife duo Chef Cenk Debnsason and Debora Ipekel. Inspired by French cuisine, the menu features dishes such as a saffron-laced monkfish bouillabaisse and duck breast slathered in apple chutney. The interiors lend themselves to intimacy, with wooden panelled walls, soft lighting and cosy leather booths lining the restaurant. Be sure to check out the Listening Room above the restaurant too; equipped with an impressive sound system and vinyl collection, the bar is headed by Debora Ipekel, who was once an ITS Radio host. arkestra.com.tr
Tucked away in Bebek Hotel by The Stay, Sankai by Nagaya is a Japanese restaurant run by Chef Yoshizumi Nagaya. A small spot with only 24 seats, Sankai serves dishes omakase style, with plates including veal cheeks cooked for 48 hours and served with tangy beans, ponzu mayonnaise and powdered vinegar. Sushi is also prepared by Chef Hiroko Shibata, who combines local edomae-style sushi with Kaiseki cuisine. sankai.com.tr
