What does one look for when deciding on a central London hotel to book into? Heritage, location and glamour. The Raffles London at The OWO has it all; plus a supercharged shot of intrigue. Read on to find out why this billion dollar hotel is London's buzziest address for locals, guests and tourists, alike.
Built for the British army in 1906, the Old War Office in London has a storied history. Standing on the site of the original Palace of Whitehall, which was home to British monarchs between 1530 and 1698, it has been witness to many world-shaping events – from wars to the Bengal famine – and enigmatic occupants: from Sir Winston Churchill to James Bond (Ian Fleming was inspired by the MI5 and MI6 spies who would appear and disappear, as if by magic, through the OWO’s secret doors). Protected as a Grade II listed building, it took 26,000 tons of Portland stone, 26 million bricks, and approximately $1.5million ($156m today) to build. It had 1,100 rooms.
Abandoned by the Ministry of Defence in the 1960s, in 2016, the decaying landmark was bought on lease by the Hindujas – one of the richest Indian business families – for more than $433 million. After a six-year renovation costing $1.76 billion, the OWO’s fraught legacy has been replaced with a certain levity: Reopened as Raffles London at The OWO, it is now the city’s most expensive hotel.
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Entering from Whitehall road, one is greeted by the building’s most famous sight, the Grand Staircase. A sweeping concoction of Derbyshire alabaster and Italian marble, it was a focal point of the Edwardian-Baroque building designed by the Scottish architect William Young and upon his death, completed by his son, Clyde Young. According to archaeologist, diplomat and writer TE Lawrence (later of Arabia), only field marshals and their charwomen could tread on it. Churchill was known to give his speeches from the landing, his followers packing up the ground floor foyer like sardines, hanging onto every word (quite literally, because the acoustics were not great). The staircase led directly to the second floor where the former offices of Lord Haldane, the Secretary of State for War in 1906, the controversial John Profumo, and Churchill, amongst other prominent figures, were located; today it sweeps you to five of London’s most iconic hotel suites.
Under the watch of the late designer Thierry Despont (he passed away merely a month before the hotel opened in September 2023) and guided by leading academic and architectural authorities, the offices were transformed into heritage suites, their grand proportions, palatial panelling and mosaic work faithfully restored and added to by a raft of talented artisans and specialist craftspeople. Boasting the original sculptured stone fireplaces, mouldings and decorative cornicing that famous ministers and generals once enjoyed, these suites are true ambassadors of British artisanal excellence.
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Decked in rich green-gold damask wall upholstery and with views over Horse Guards Avenue, one might expect that the Churchill suite (originally the Army Council Room where critical decisions during WWII were made), would be the most stately; but it is the Granville suite, named after the Polish aristocrat Christine Granville who was considered to be Churchill’s favourite spy (and indeed, UK's longest-serving World War Two special agent, male or female), that is a real eye-opener. Originally the ‘Levee Rooms’, where military receptions were held, it is now an homage to neo-classical design, with immaculate plasterwork, rich upholstery and a breathtaking bathroom – where a gilded bathtub, set in front of the original green marble fireplace, holds court.
The grandest of them all, the 181sqm Haldene suite – located in Churchill’s former office – could set you back by USD $31,000 a night. Set inside one of the building's towers is the aptly named Turret suite; it boasts a ground floor bedroom and bathroom, and an exceptional lounge overlooking historic Whitehall on the upper floor.
From its 120 rooms and suites (plus 85 luxurious private residences), to the original pull handles in delicate art nouveau stylings topped with the royal cipher of Edward VII, bespoke window treatments inspired by the uniforms of the Horse Guards and grand corridors – wide enough for two runners (akin to despatch riders on a battlefield) to pass – whispers of the past echo throughout the hotel. It is in its restaurant and leisure offerings that the London of today finds its place at The OWO.
Set within its grand courtyard and masterminded by UK architecture studio DaeWha Kang Design, an unapologetically modern pre-fab pavilion – with curved glass walls and a rippling mirror-finished stainless steel roof – is home to the UK outpost of the glamorous Parisian hotspot, Café Lapérouse. Nine restaurants (including three by the Michelin-starred Argentinian chef Mauro Colagreco), a rooftop venue where japanese cuisine by chef Endo Kazutoshi meets panoramic city views and Spy Bar, a 007-style speakeasy that you will find only if you dare to venture through the building’s cavernous basement, tip their hats to the city’s multi-cultural spirit.
Booking into the Raffles London at The OWO? Make sure you request a guided tour by Emiel Danneels, the hotel’s in-house historian. He will unlock the building’s many secrets, and grand rooms, for you. At the end of the tour, ask to be dropped off at the Guerlain Spa: Spanning 2,500sqm over four floors and designed by Goddard Littlefair, the state-of-the-art wellness haven features a stunning 20m indoor swimming pool, nine exquisitely designed treatment suites and a host of restorative treatments – the perfect way to recover from the 2.1miles trek through the property’s historic corridors.
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