AlUla is like nowhere else on earth; a mysterious, almost magical place where the nature-made and human-made merge in landscapes that have to be seen to be believed. Less crowded than Petra, more remote than Giza and with an exhilarating energy all its own, it’s one of the most extraordinary heritage sites in the world. Here are five unmissable things to do in incredible AlUla.
The ancient Nabataean tombs of Hegra are AlUla’s big-ticket draws, carved out of the rocks between the 1st millennium BC and the 1st millennium BCE. Hegra was the commercial counterpart to the Nabataean capital in Petra, but their city only flourished here for about 200 years before being annexed by the Romans. Board one of the Experience AlUla buses for a guided tour of the site, or go for the far more atmospheric option of exploring by open-top vintage Land Rover, bouncing along the sand roads with 360-degree views of Hegra’s extraordinary landscapes. The most instantly recognisable tomb is that of Lihyan Son of Kuza, but the smaller tombs are equally as fascinating and enigmatic.
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Squeezed improbably between two honey-hued sandstone cliffs, the infinity pool at the Banyan Tree AlUla is breathtaking. Dive in by day for views of the extraordinary geological formations scattered across the surrounding Ashar Valley, formed over millennia by wind and water, or at sunset when soft light illuminates the resort. While the pool is an architectural feat in itself, so is the rest of the property. The low-slung tented villas are so well camouflaged that you barely notice them from a distance, but up close they’re a triumph of thoughtful site-specific design.
In a remote stretch of desert outside AlUla, Gharameel’s clear, lightless, pollution-free skies are the perfect canvases for jaw-dropping stargazing. Arrive before sunset to explore the otherworldly rock pinnacles that reach skywards like gnarled fingers, and then settle in on rugs and cushions to see the celestial show. Organized tours, like those offered by Husaak, include dinner and a star guide who will point out the constellations that Arabian nomads and traders used to navigate their journeys across the seas and deserts. Try to time your visit for a clear night with a new moon and the stars will appear to shine even brighter.
Inhabited from the 12th century up until the 1980s, AlUla Old Town was an essential stop for travellers on the pilgrimage route from Damascus to Makkah. Today, it’s a fairly compact mix of restored mud-brick buildings, shops, cafés and restaurants, as well as a collection of crumbling houses best seen from the top of the settlement's 10th century fort. The Al Jadidah arts district comes alive in winter with pop-up stores, exhibitions and an old-school outdoor roller rink. Plus, it’s an easy stroll down to the six-kilometre Oasis Trail to wander beneath towering date palms. Old Town is also one of the best places to eat in AlUla. On the rooftop of a restored house, Suhail is a lovely spot for modern Saudi cuisine made from local ingredients, like the AlUla orange and lavender salad and jareesh topped with caramelised onions and a flicker of gold leaf. At Somewhere, on the edge of Al Jadidah, crispy kunafa-coated shrimps, generous piles of sayadieh and sweet karak French toast are served beneath swaying palm fronds. And to sample the fruits of AlUla’s oasis, head to Tomoor for specialty coffee accompanied by pastries and desserts made with locally harvested dates.
The most impressive of AlUla’s modern-day sights is Maraya, the world’s largest mirrored building. Shimmering among the sands of the Ashar Valley, Maraya appears out of nowhere like a mirage despite its imposing size, reflecting the sky and surrounding scenery on every surface. It’s not just about the exteriors, though. There’s a restaurant, Maraya Social, on the roof, and the venue plays host to big-name concerts throughout the winter season, with names like Alicia Keys, Cheb Khaled and One Republic putting on shows here.
